Chere Couloir - Triangle du Tacul

The Chere Couloir (II,4) The very top climber in at the 3rd belay and the bottom 2 making their way up to the 2nd.

We met the famous Dane Burns of the Coldthistle gear blog the day before on the steps back up to Montenvers, had a beer and then went for dinner with him. I hadn't had the opportunity to climb during my time out here, mainly due to lack of partners, so he offered to climb with me. We chose the Chere couloir as neither of us had done it, plus it's a ski in, ski out route so a great multi-activity day,

Clogwyn Du: Round DeUx

Last season was a very disappointing period for me in the winter climbing scene as the only time I used crampons was for the descent down the Midi ridge to do the Vallee Blanche, and the axe came out once for a traverse in boots across a slope. I spent hours flicking between weather forecasts and looking at conditions for North Wales and the Lakes but nothing seemed worth the 5 hour drive north. So with the new winter season well under way, my luck this year has paid off and with a rare free weekend, good conditions and a partner, I was heading North for some good old Welsh winter. The only trouble was the weather. MWIS has forecast 80mph winds with a windchill factor of -21C.

...This will be interesting....

It won't make you climb harder...

Rocking the 'look' on the Grands Montets

May 1953: I'm walking in my brand new, thin, windproof jacket and trousers, made of cotton and Nylon. Underneath I have a combination of  light weight and heavy weight woollen jumpers and a hand knitted scarf made by my sister.

Fast forward to the late 1970s/early 80s and my choice of clothing today is my brand new polartec fleece, Rohan salopettes and 2nd generation Gore Tex.

And finally, we fast forward to today, 2015. I'm about to head outside, clothed in my new Hybrid base layer of Merino wool and synthetic material. On top of that, the latest synthetic mid layer that claims 'put it on, leave it on'. It's a little bit windy so I'll throw on my new Polartec Neoshell hardshell, or shall I put on my new softshell? I might have to open the pit zips if I get too warm. Actually, come to think about it, I think my mid layer might be too warm, so I'll put on the lighter gillet instead, down or synthetic? Or what about my fleece? Ahh but what if it gets a bit colder while I'm out? I'll throw my new, sub 300g down jacket with hydrophobic down, in a pack. Hmm, actually, the forecast says slight chance of rain, best play it safe and throw in my equivalent synthetic 'belay' jacket in too. While I'm at it, I'll chuck on my hardshell, full length zips and drop seat salopettes that I used on Denali...



...Right, where's the dog?

Three's a crowd...No it's not!

Chris had mentioned that for a while now, the North ridge of Tryfan (I/II) had been on his wish list. So, we decided to head up and do it the next morning. Little did we know the new friend we'll be making today

Idwal Skills

Just a quick post.

After an amazing day on the black ladders, me and Chris headed over to the other side of the valley and into Idwal. We had a few routes in mind but the only one free at the time of arrival was Chicane Gully (III, 4). Although, there was a team on the second pitch. We waited at the base, gearing up and out of the fall line of the ice they were knocking off! I did contemplate Grecian 2000 at this time, but decided against it for some unknown reason.

Black 'Leash' Ladders

I must admit, I've neglected this blog for the past month or two. After my last winter trip to North Wales of the season, I jetted off to Egypt to visit my girlfriend studying out there. Ever since i got back, I've been pretty busy. So finally I've gotten round to updating it. And so...

Trinity Threesome

The night gave way to morning as the cold, clear sky above Pen Y Pass began to glow a light shade of orange. The frosty blanket covering my bivi bag had woken me long before my alarm, but I burrowed my head into the warmth of a goose down cocoon and waited for the jingle to wake the car park. Cold with clear skies. Perfect day for winter climbing on Snowdon. 

Clogwyn Du food theif!

Idwal or Clogwyn? Or maybe somewhere else? Oh the joys of deciding where to go in the winter climbing game. It had been cold all week, and ice was forming. But how good will this ice be? And what will the conditions be like higher up?

Lakes Winter Climbing

The Lakes is in. But Wales is closer. But routes have been done in the lakes... Decisions. This was the basis of mine and Tim's talk during the week building up to the weekend. In the end, we decided on the Lakes, and quite right we were...

North Wales Ice Climbing

This week has been a bout of disappointment. At first I missed out on a night climb of Torpantau falls in South Wales with Tim, which turned out to be a blessing any way as he didn't even reach the falls. And secondly, Chris had to work at the weekend and Tim was already in Wales, so no climbing partners were free. So, I posted on UKC for a partner, with the slim chance that someone would answer.