Toule glacier and the Vallee Noire

View from the Torino hut from the Dent dy Geant on the left, to the Integral ridge on the right

Do you believe in fate? Or what about luck? Do things happen for a reason or do we determine our own path through life? I used to believe that 'It'll never happen to me' and that it always happens to other people, but this attitude in the mountains can prove fatal and is a stupid way of thinking. You're never truly in control in this environment. Ok, so you're confident in your abilities and that you're prepared for the conditions. You've checked the weather and the avalanche bulletin. You've picked your intended route or descent because of the current conditions as it's a safer option. But you're in the mountains now. You can't predict every avalanche, or a serac fall. How stable was that snow bridge you just skied over? Oh, you didn't realise you just skied over a crevasse? And what about those rocks above you, frozen in time to the mountain face, waiting for the 'true loves first kiss' of the rising sun to awaken them? In these circumstances, timing and 'luck' are the things keeping you from having a bad day. As we found, when skiing the Toule glacier.

Grand & Petit Envers VB variation: Keeping up tradition...

FINALLY! The wind has died down and the midi is open! But unfortunately for Dave, he's heading home. However, he did make it all the way to the ice tunnel on the midi before heading back down via the lift as he didn't think he'll be back in time to get his transfer. Any way, me and Kev carried on down the ridge with our plan of skiing the Grand Envers. The sun was shining, the snow was good and off we went.

Dear Chamonix...It's not me, it's you...

The winds still haven't died down and so we've been forced to seek skiing elsewhere. We headed to Courmayeur on Thursday but like with Cham, the top bin was closed because of the wind. But still, we had the sun. Not really knowing what else there was off piste wise, we started to spot interesting little lines from the chair lifts. We did a few laps down a steep slope under the Bertolini chair which consisted of chalky snow and moguls which was good practice for steep skiing and a lot of fun, then headed over to the Aretu chair where we spied the remains of a small avalanche so went to investigate.

Grand Montets

Top of Bochard nearing the end of the day

Since Dave and Kev have arrived, the weather has deteriorated. High winds have closed the top bin of the GM and the Midi and the avalanche warnings are consistent across the range at 4, so we're forced to seek our fix else where. The obvious choice being off the Bochard and Herse lift on the GM. So over the last couple of days, we've been skiing pretty much every bit of Off piste the GM has to offer.

Col du Lac Cornu - Col de la Gliere, Aiguille Rouge

I arrived in Chamonix on Wednesday after the most stress free traveling I have ever had; no cues, no waiting (apart from the compulsory 2 hour wait before boarding the flight) and no rushing! I had 3 days on my own before Kev and Dave got here so had to pick my objectives carefully. With all the recent news about avalanches, I was reluctant to do much off piste, but I checked the forecast, looked at slopes below 30 degrees and decided to head up into the Aiguille Rouge and do a short ski tour.

Clogwyn Du: Round DeUx

Last season was a very disappointing period for me in the winter climbing scene as the only time I used crampons was for the descent down the Midi ridge to do the Vallee Blanche, and the axe came out once for a traverse in boots across a slope. I spent hours flicking between weather forecasts and looking at conditions for North Wales and the Lakes but nothing seemed worth the 5 hour drive north. So with the new winter season well under way, my luck this year has paid off and with a rare free weekend, good conditions and a partner, I was heading North for some good old Welsh winter. The only trouble was the weather. MWIS has forecast 80mph winds with a windchill factor of -21C.

...This will be interesting....

It won't make you climb harder...

Rocking the 'look' on the Grands Montets

May 1953: I'm walking in my brand new, thin, windproof jacket and trousers, made of cotton and Nylon. Underneath I have a combination of  light weight and heavy weight woollen jumpers and a hand knitted scarf made by my sister.

Fast forward to the late 1970s/early 80s and my choice of clothing today is my brand new polartec fleece, Rohan salopettes and 2nd generation Gore Tex.

And finally, we fast forward to today, 2015. I'm about to head outside, clothed in my new Hybrid base layer of Merino wool and synthetic material. On top of that, the latest synthetic mid layer that claims 'put it on, leave it on'. It's a little bit windy so I'll throw on my new Polartec Neoshell hardshell, or shall I put on my new softshell? I might have to open the pit zips if I get too warm. Actually, come to think about it, I think my mid layer might be too warm, so I'll put on the lighter gillet instead, down or synthetic? Or what about my fleece? Ahh but what if it gets a bit colder while I'm out? I'll throw my new, sub 300g down jacket with hydrophobic down, in a pack. Hmm, actually, the forecast says slight chance of rain, best play it safe and throw in my equivalent synthetic 'belay' jacket in too. While I'm at it, I'll chuck on my hardshell, full length zips and drop seat salopettes that I used on Denali...



...Right, where's the dog?

Ben Nevis on the Grande Montets...and then some

And so, my 4th day of putting skins on skis was in a tired and hungover state and for the 3rd time in a week, at the base of Piere a Ric. Lets make this the LAST time I skin up this piste...

Ever!

Ski Performance for Mountaineers - Verbier

Testimonial:

I learnt to ski on a dry slope in the UK in Dec 2013 and soon after, in Jan 2014, headed off to Austria for my first holiday. 2 months later I was in Chamonix following friends off piste and 'getting by'. With the ambition of becoming a BMG and an impressive list of ski descents I want to do, I needed to get serious. Alison is a fantastic instructor with a wealth of knowledge and this course has given me the confidence to venture into more challenging terrain and hopefully onto some of those ski descents in the near future. I'll be back again for a top up!

In search of snow!

Conditions are shit in Chamonix at the moment. The lifts aren't opening until the 20th, which is the day I leave and no snow is forecast. So we have to be creative and intuitive and seek out those hidden areas which could potentially hold enough powder for a few keen turns. This is the first time, for me, being in Chamonix that you actually get funny looks for carrying skis!

learning to skin!

I arrived in Cham last night to cold temps and a dusting of snow, however the conditions are far from perfect. This morning, me and Colin decided to head up to Argentiere and skin up Pierre a Ric to the Lognan on the Grands Montets to see what conditions are like. There have been a few changes to the lifts since my time away, the most noticeable being the replacement of the Plan Joran chair lift to a brand new lift station and bubbles.

Chris Walker Memorial Trust

I just want give a huge thank you to the parents of Chris Walker for giving me a place on Alison Culshaws Off Piste for Mountaineers course via their sons memorial trust.

For those who don't know about it, sadly Chris died in an avalanche in Feb 2010 and his parents set up a trust fund in his name to help those with a passion for the mountains.

For more information visit his website:

http://www.chriswalkertrust.co.uk

Once again, thank you. This will be a huge step for me in gaining the knowledge and experience needes for becoming a British Mountain Guide...

...one day :)

Popping my Cloggy & Dinas Mot cherry

I've always hated the drive up to North Wales, it's always at night, I'm always tired and the drive is always boring. Except for the time I was sideways on the M56, that was an interesting drive. But every time I make the journey up north, I know that I'm about to escape from reality and spend the weekend in a place where I'm truly happy and where I feel I belong: In the mountains.

Vallee Blanche - Twice in a day

"Dude, we have to stop, I've lost the tracks and I can't see where the crevasses are." The weather had taken over us, no matter how hard or fast we skied. It was now snowing and combined with the wind and low cloud, we had lost the tracks. Up ahead, the buried tracks passed over a snow bridge, open crevasses either side. Without the tracks or visability, we had no idea which crevasse would swallow us up. Too scared to carry on, we waited, forced to spend the night on the glacier. Just the 2 of us, alone in bad weather, on the Vallee Blanche...

Chamonix Skiing

Lady skier (on piste): THERE'S A CREVASSE BELOW YOU!!

Me (off piste): Yeah, I know, cheers!

Me: "shit.....Kev! Have you noticed the Bergschrund? We're above it."

Kev: "Shit...I have now, Back up! Onto the piste!

We'll pick up from here later......

Kaprun & Zell Am See, Austria skiing

During December of 2013, I learnt how to ski at the Mendip dry ski slope near Bristol. I had a ski holiday booked to Kaprun in Austria in January and another trip to Chamonix in the pipeline for March. However,  my first encouter with skis didn't go to well...