Wednesday, 30 January 2013

Training plan

I've now started to get serious with training after getting my psyche back this weekend with some winter climbing! My previous training programme was neglected some what, with me not really sticking to it and doing the odd session a week. But now, after writing up a few new core and upper body training plans, I'm starting to get more motivated and addicted to training.

I've re-evaluated my goals for this year and got some motivation through planning an Alps trip in the summer and being serious about upping both my trad grade (From E2 onsights to headpointing E5) and sport grades (From 6c+ onsights to redpointing 7b+). I know my weaknesses, which at the moment seem to be finger strength, endurance and core strength on overhanging terrain. And so now, along with working these, I'll be doing more Cardio ready for the Alps and the long winter walk ins in Scotland next winter.

So a bit more on the training plans. I have written below 2 core programmes and an upper body programme. I will add however, that these are not original! I have searched online (UKC fit club) and adapted these programmes to suit me.


Plan 1

(1min rest between sets)

Plank (1.5mins)
3x30secs of Dishes (2xLow, 1xHigh)
One leg press ups (x10)
Wide leg press ups (x10)
Crunch (x10)
Legs up Crunch (x10)
Hanging L-Raises (x6-8)


Plank (1min)
Lateral Flexion (2x10-12)
3xMax Bicycles


One leg press ups (x10)
Crunches (2x10)
Plank (1min)

(30+ mins)

This one is beastly! After the session I hurt through to the nest day!

Core plan 2

I got this one off UKC fit club after someone posted it and have tweaked it slightly.

Static Core 3x per week
Low dish 4x1min
High dish 4x1min

Dynamic core 3x p/w
Dish tucks 4 x 20
Crunches 2 x 20
Side crunches 3 x 20

Suspended core 1x p/w
L - raises 4 x 5
Tuck ups 6 x 10

This one isn't as bad, so I followed the previous plan with this one the next day. Then followed by a rest day.


Again, these have been lifted from t'internet, so apologies for lack of creativity but I'm seeing if they work.

- 4-6wks of repeaters on pockets (front 2, middle 2 and back 2 and 4 finger, half crimp repeaters on small edges.)
- 4-6 wks of maximum hangs on 3 fingers (open, back and front) and 4 finger (half crimped) - doing a combination of 1 and 2 armed hangs.

- 4-6 weeks off fingerboarding - mainly climbing on a steep board, making sure to work the body as much as the finger (long moves, wide moves, undercuts etc).

Workout 2

Max pull ups on biggest hold
-1 pull up on smaller/weaker hold
Continue till 1 pull up on smallest/weakest hold
Work back up pyramid

E.g. 10 pull ups, 9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10 decreasing hold size/fingers each set.

I beasted this one out earlier but couldn't, at the moment, complete all the required reps per hold. I have a beastmaker 2000 fingerboard and so, started on the biggest finger rungs and decreased down using 2 finger pockets, slopers, smaller rung, 3 fingers and monos. Disregarding the hold I used, my set went like this:


I rested 1 min before commencing the next set of pull ups and then 3 mins before working back up the pyramid. I didn't manage the last set of 10 as i was simply to knackered! But in time, I'm hoping to manage the entire lot!

Fingerboard wise, I'll be mixing up the above plans with Encores (Beastmaker website), max hangs and pyramid hangs.

So there we have it. Hopefully if I keep this up for 3 sessions a week, mixed with bouldering and climbing twice a week if possible, then I'll reach my goals for this year. Now to find a 7b+ to redpoint in the South West!

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